Have you ever played restaurant as a kid or set up a lemonade stand outside your house? There is a couple in Bonita, Ryan Cunningham (aka Chef Pennywise) and Kalina, who never let that memory die. They have set up a burger joint in their home called Burger Kook, and it is blowing up. They bill themselves as the world’s second-best burger, because everyone claims to be the best. I have been threatening to make the drive to the South Bay for months now, and I finally pulled the trigger on a recent day off. I hear rumors that they make extremely good, real ice cream milkshakes, so I wore my fat pants. Thank goodness for elastic.
The drive took me about 20 minutes, and my research instructed me to look for the yellow umbrellas in the front yard, as there are no commercial signs allowed because it’s a neighborhood.
You may wonder how Burger Kook pulled this off; can anyone cook out of their home? You can if you obtain a microenterprise home kitchen permit. Years of growing up in Coronado tell me that this might not be welcomed in our town with open arms — all the more reason to head over the bridge and experience something different.
As I turned down Central Avenue, I immediately saw the yellow umbrellas. Sure enough, this is someone’s home. There were tables set up in the driveway, and the counter where you place your order is in the garage. The garage is draped with very cool floor-to-ceiling banners featuring large images of Anthony Bourdain and another culinary legend you may be less familiar with, Marco Pierre White — one of the greatest chefs of all time and a hero of mine. Immediately I knew this was going to be one hell of a burger, or at least it better be. If your heroes are the “Godfather of Modern Cooking” and Anthony Bourdain, you better come correct.
There were two of the nicest young women working the counter. I told them I had never been there before and asked them what I should order. One of the women immediately suggested the basic cheeseburger, as she feel that it is a good place to start before venturing into their specialty burgers.
The Classic Cheeseburger comes with lettuce, tomato, pickle, grilled onions, kook sauce, and American cheese. The burger was a smash-type patty made with a custom blend of top sirloin, filet mignon, and rib-eye. The meat comes from a purveyor I am very familiar with, Central Meat and Provision, a San Diego company that has been around for more than 125 years.
The burger hit on every level. The patty had those crispy, lacy edges, and the meat’s flavor stood out and made me take notice. The lettuce was crisp and the tomato flavorful. The pickle chips were on the thicker side and crinkle cut. The kook sauce was a riff on so many great special burger sauces, too many to name. I was only halfway through this burger and trying to figure out when I could get back down for my second round.
While I waited for my burger, I observed servers carrying out corn dogs, French fries cooked in beef tallow, and a Nashville Hot Chicken Sandwich. I even overheard someone order a pizza burger, but I left before I saw it come out. Burger Kook has a deep menu with lots to choose from and over 15 milkshakes. I was not leaving without a milkshake. I witnessed one of the owners carrying in large tubs of Thrifty Ice Cream. Thrifty is quite the nostalgic brand that brings back some fun memories.
There are three shakes on the menu labeled “Summer Only”: Cherry, Lemon Bar, and Orange Cream. I am a sucker for a Dreamsicle/Creamsicle, you know the vanilla ice cream bar coated in orange sherbet. I went for the Orange Cream. Do you know the difference between a Creamsicle and a Dreamsicle? I didn’t either, so I looked it up; inquiring minds need to know. A Creamsicle contains ice cream, and a Dreamsicle is made with ice milk. Get out there and amaze your friends with this important bit of knowledge.
My shake came out before my burger, and it was everything I wanted it to be. It had that winning combination of vanilla and bright tangy orange. I went with the addition of whipped cream, which they sprinkled with some orange dust, making the presentation visually stunning. I remember the vending machine at the Officer’s Club pool on North Island had Creamsicles when I was a kid, a memory I am so fond of. I can’t remember the last time I had a shake that tasted that good.
I wanted to stay and see if I could get a second wind and at least try the beef tallow French fries, but I knew better. I will be back for sure.
If you want a fun adventure this summer, get in the car and head down there. The people are over-the-top friendly, and the food is something you have to experience to believe. Second best burger for sure, but they may be selling themselves short. There is a good chance you will see me out there. I am now a huge fan, and I want to support this family.
If your island fever won’t break and you can’t be bothered to make the trip across the bridge, the best burger deal in town is the newest burger joint in town Double Standard: Burger and fries for $10; add a PBR (Pabst Blue Ribbon) Tallboy for $5, daily from 3-5 pm.
Burger Kook
5114 Central Avenue
Bonita, CA 91902
Hours
Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 am – 8 pm
