El Indio: 86 years and still rolling

Rolled tacos, taquitos, tacos dorados, or flautas — all names for a tortilla rolled around a filling that is then fried. Taquito means “little taco,” which is a fair description of their size. Taco dorado means “golden taco,” a fair description of its color after frying. Flauta means “flute,” which describes the shape, and often a flauta is a larger version of a rolled taco that may even use a flour tortilla. To so many of us in San Diego, we are most familiar with the term taquito.

The term “taquito” for a rolled taco was coined right here in San Diego at El Indio on India Street. There is a raging debate on the origin of the rolled taco. If you are an Angelino, you believe the magic started at Cielto Lindo, founded by Aurora Guerrero in 1934, on Olivera Street in Los Angeles. If you are a San Diegan, your money is on Ralph Pesqueira Sr., who founded El Indio and introduced the term taquito to describe rolled tacos. 

Did either of these restaurants invent the rolled taco? In my opinion, probably not, as both claim to have adapted family recipes; but were they responsible for popularizing, marketing, and naming? 100 percent. There are only so many ways to wrap something in a tortilla, and the tortilla has been around for more than a hot minute, so chances are someone prior has rolled and fried it, and I have to believe that was done in Mexico. That being said, I love El Indio; their taquitos are amazing, and the chips are the best in town. They are not everyone’s cup of tea, but they are my shot of whiskey, as they are thicker than the average chip and dusted with paprika. Yes, please give me two more bags. I love them as is, but they are second to none for making chilaquiles, and I make a killer plate of ballpark nachos with these bad boys.

I have had and enjoyed fancy nachos with “real” cheese, but my favorite ones are the ones that come in a paper tray with nacho cheese sauce and pickled jalapeños. A bag of El Indio Chips, a can of nacho cheese sauce, and a jar of pickled jalapeños, and you are living large; enjoyed too often, and you are looking large. These iconic chips take this simple combination to the next level. One bite and you are a kid at a little league ball park; the only thing you will be missing is a soda with crushed ice in a Styrofoam cup. I digress; let’s get back to El Indo the restaurant.

My father first introduced my brother Michael and me to El Indio some 50 years ago when it was a small shop and they had not yet taken over the store next door to provide more space and a dining room. Back in the day, there was just the patio across the street. We would arrive to find a line stretching down the block, and when we finally ordered, we would get a number in the hundreds. I would complain as the loudspeaker barked out a number in the 50s. Never fear, they were always on their game, and the numbers would fly by.  

On a recent day off, I asked my daughter Sasha if she wanted some El Indio chips as we drove south on the 5. The answer, of course, was yes, so I got off on Washington Street and made my way to the promised land. She was amazed that the chips actually came from a restaurant, as she had only experienced them in a few local markets. I was reliving the experience my brother and I had with my father some 50 years earlier; how cool is that? 

Sasha had the tamales with red sauce, and I ordered the signature taquitos filled with mashed potatoes and a crispy beef taco. Of course we grabbed two bags of chips, some guacamole, pico de gallo, and their red salsa. I love the fact that my daughter’s palate has matured and that she was devouring a tamale. The taquitos were crispy, filled with fluffy mashed potatoes, and topped with a generous amount of shredded lettuce and guacamole. If you have not experienced tacos de papas, what are you waiting for? They are always served in a crispy shell, whether rolled or folded. The crunch of the tortilla, juxtaposed with the soft, fluffy potato, is a combo not to be missed. The crispy, shredded beef taco is one of my favorites; everything is better when fried. The crunch is amazing, and the shredded beef is tender and delicious.

Chips and salsa in hand, we departed El Indio with Sasha asking when we could return. If she is anything like my brother and me, she will ask to stop any time she passes the airport. 

El Indio can provide large party trays for your next event. The chips and tortillas are always hot off the press, and you will be greeted with a warm smile and impeccable service. El Indio is still owned and operated by the Pesqueira family, three generations strong. Grab the kids and go check it out. 86 years is no small feat; let’s get them to 100. 

El Indio
3695 India Street
San Diego, CA 92103

Hours
Monday – Sunday 9 AM – 8 PM