Who has the Funk? In this case, it’s not George Clinton; Chef Ted Smith has the funk. Ted is the man behind the food at Starlite and so many other fun spots around San Diego. I had the distinct pleasure of opening Beginners Diner with Chef Ted Smith at the newly renovated Lafayette Hotel and Swim Club, which was recently awarded the Michelin Key (the hotel version of a star). Starlite is not Ted’s first rodeo. Ted has previously been at the helm of several Consortium Holdings (CH) projects, such as Craft and Commerce, which has been featured in the Michelin Guide, and Born and Raised.
Anticipation was high as I looked forward to experiencing what Chef Ted had in store at the newly renovated Starlite (3175 India Street). His previous work at Beginners Diner had been awe-inspiring, elevating basic diner fare with a touch of whimsy. I couldn’t wait to see what he had done with the Starlite menu.
Truth be told, I was a little worried when I heard that Starlite was being renovated. This iconic San Diego spot was so cool just the way it was. I, however, saw firsthand what Arsalun Tafazoli, the visionary behind all the CH Projects, did with the Lafayette, so if anyone could put some lipstick on this old favorite, it was he. Let’s be honest: There isn’t a CH project in town that isn’t Disney-level cool.
Unfortunately, I had already had dinner the first night we went to the new Starlite, so the plan was to have a couple of fun cocktails. Once I saw Ted’s menu, our plan fell to pieces. The first thing that caught my eye was the mozzarella sticks served with crème fraiche and caviar. Yes, please, sold! Then we ordered the wagyu fat mashed potatoes. The caviar and crème fraiche disappeared quickly, and then my inner fat kid took over, and I dragged those remaining mozzarella sticks through that flavor bomb of whipped potatoes, cream, and beef fat. Should I be ashamed? Well, I am not. My inner fat kid has no shame. I forced myself to leave, determined to come back and take down the steak sampler the bartender had teased me with.
About a week before my return visit to Starlite, on my way home from work, I made a pass through Little Italy, and I found myself at Craft & Commerce. I enjoyed one of Craft’s signature cocktails while I eagerly read the late-night menu. When I saw the chicken nuggets with caviar, I knew immediately Ted had a hand in this menu. The said menu, which features a mix of comfort food and gourmet dishes, is a testament to Ted’s culinary prowess. While my champagne tastes wanted me to order the four nuggets with Osetra caviar ($123), my beer budget settled for some wood-grilled shrimp skewers marinated in harissa and finished with cilantro. I also ordered the smaltz fries with crispy chicken skin topping, served with a dijonaise sauce, which turned out to be a banger of a choice as well. I had to return to the source and finally have Ted make dinner for me at Starlite.
My date and I arrived early at Starlite. We did not have reservations, so we posted up at the coolest bar in San Diego. Kelly was our bartender and culinary guide for the evening. Once she got some much-anticipated cocktails in our hands, we carefully studied the menu. What my date didn’t know was that I had already decided on the steak sampler for two the last time we dined there — four steaks with four sauces. The bartender’s pro tip was also to order a few of the flavored butters. I was all in. The only thing left to decide was which kind of potato to order. We had the wagyu fat mashed potatoes on our last visit, so we decided on the herb scalloped potatoes with cheddar, confit onions, and chives. Our bartender Kelly was quick to suggest that we might regret not getting the twice-baked potato with aged cheddar, bacon, black truffle, and chives. I said dealer’s choice, and away we went. While we enjoyed our newly arrived dirty martinis, we nibbled on our wagyu fat radishes with black salt. The butter and radishes were divine, but it was the presentation that took it to the next level, as the heirloom radishes were tucked into what looked like a ’70s-era stainless steel egg chair. The steaks arrived just in time, as I was about to scoop all the Wagyu-fat-laced butter out of the little ball chair container and devour it.
The steak sampler demands its own lengthy paragraph. Four steaks, four sauces. I would like to share with you the different cuts of steak, but I blew it. I know one was a prime filet and another a wagyu ribeye, but as our server was describing the last two, I went into a food trance, trying to take it all in. Ted served the four sauces in mini silver chalices, elevating them off the platter, placing them center stage. The steaks came sliced, and I was grateful for that, as it meant fewer movements from plate to mouth. We both dug in immediately, with my first move being to dip my first piece of steak into that wagyu fat radish butter before the server could pry the little container from my hands. Thanks Kelly for keeping me from embarrassing myself any further.
The steak sauces were as follows: Béarnaise, my personal favorite; Zhoug —what the heck is that? creamy horseradish and smoked tomato jam. Google tells me Zhoug is a spicy cilantro sauce from the Middle East. The flavor is as exotic as it is delicious. We were just hitting our stride, dipping pieces of melt-in-your-mouth steak into the quartet of sauces, when Kelly, our bartender, suggested mixing the creamy horseradish sauce with the Zhoug, a game changer. Oh, yeah, I almost forgot I ordered a trio of butters, too. I left it up to Ted which ones. He sent out the garlic and Kampot pepper, seaweed, and the Espelette, all incredibly delicious and completely unnecessary. The sauces stole the show, and as I write this, I’m munching on a couple of pieces of toast at home, one with seaweed butter and the other with Espelette. Do you think for a second I was going to let those imported French butters go to waste? And thanks again, Google, for letting me know Espelette is a spicy French butter made with Espelette pepper. The more you know! Side note: the sampler is all about the sauces, but truth be told, the steaks were all stand-alone good.
Belt adjusted, my date and I knew we were not leaving without the incredible show-stopping ice cream sandwich, served in a massive gold chalice atop a bed of pebble ice. Toffee chip cookies and vanilla ice cream with the edges of the sandwich rolled in chopped pistachios. We took it down like it was our last meal while fooling ourselves that the Fernet we were drinking would somehow settle our stomachs.
The year isn’t over, but I am calling it here in early November. My meal at Starlite, curated by one of my favorite chefs, Ted Smith, was and is the best meal I have had or will have in 2025. I am also going to say that Starlite is the date spot of the year. I do love a seat at the bar, but if you are leaning toward romantic, reserve a table upstairs in the grotto by the waterfall. Date night solved, enjoy some of Ted’s food at Starlite while you still can. An ascending talent like his won’t stay still for long. My inner fat kid and outer fat adult are stalking him, so I will keep you posted if he makes a move. So happy for you Ted!
