“Do not judge me until you have walked a mile in my sprinkles.”
One night in high school circa 1986, a friend and I took some girls down the access road at the Coronado golf course to “watch the submarine races.” An unexpected burst of water from the sprinklers put a wet blanket on our plans; soaking wet, we jumped in the car to make a hasty retreat. While turning around, we backed over a bunker on a sand trap and found ourselves stuck with the back two tires of our Volvo station wagon hanging over a bunker on the back nine.
The girls immediately abandoned us and started walking home, leaving us with quite a problem as sunrise approached. We were hatching a plan to scramble home and report the car stolen when four inebriated sailors appeared from the mist. They were turned around and looking for their ship at North Island. We struck up a deal: help lift the car out of the trap, and we would drive them back to the carrier. We got them to the ship just before Morning Colors, but now we had a dilemma. My poor mother, god rest her soul, was undoubtedly up. The car was gone, and we were sure to get busted.
My partner in crime had a plan, thank goodness for the Village Donut Shop. We made a B-line there, picked up a dozen donuts, and arrived home laughing and shocked at my mother’s dismay. My mother was furious and demanded to know where we had been all night. Our alibi was an early morning trip to the Village Donuts and a front-row space at the beach to check the surf at sunrise. I still can’t believe four drunk sailors and a dozen donuts saved our hides that night. I think a “thank you for your service” is in order.
Since that adventure, donuts have held a special place in my heart. For years Village Donut was located in the space where Boney’s Bayside Market now sits. It was a great meeting place, and I know I am not the only one of my generation who misses it. There are several places on the island to get donuts today, but all are designed to grab and go. Clayton’s has a take-out window, and Blue Bridge has Dinky Donuts. Another cute place, Donut Beach, resides in the El Cordova Plaza. They sell individually wrapped donuts ready to go and even offer free coffee.
My new donut obsession, however, is not in town; it is in Little Italy on Kettner Street across from The Waterfront Bar. I am talking about The Devil’s Dozen, owned by the Kettner Exchange. Not only do they have next-level gourmet donuts made hourly, but they also have an adorable space above the shop where you can enjoy them. These donuts have to be seen to be believed. My favorite is a pink donut with sprinkles called the Homer. This eye-catching donut is named after the TV character Homer Simpson. Homer has an unhealthy obsession with donuts, and the image of said donut with its pink frosting has become iconic. There are some staples like the Devil’s Vanilla or the Devil’s Chocolate, but I go for the specials, and they never disappoint. You must experience this destination spot first hand, but get there early; when they sell out they close, a daily occurrence.
If you make the trek and Devil’s Dozen happens to be closed, never fear, it’s not a wasted trip. Walk across the street and belly-up to the oldest operating bar in San Diego since prohibition, The Waterfront, circa 1933. They have some of the best burgers in town and award-winning bowls of posole. Devil’s Dozen opens at 7 am on weekdays and 8 am on the weekends. The Waterfront has a full menu starting at 8 am daily.
I hope you get to enjoy some of these devilish donuts. Live a little: The bridge no longer has a toll and it’s a ten-minute drive.
