Would you drive to Bonita for a taco? I would, I have, and I will. For years, I’ve been making the pilgrimage to Bonita for some of the best fish tacos in San Diego at TJ Oyster Bar. Now, Bonita boasts Tacos El Franc, a Michelin-recognized taco joint located in the Westfield Mall. The newest location of this storied taco joint is situated at 528 Fifth Avenue in the Gaslamp District.
Don Javier Valadez started selling tacos from a cart in Tijuana, Mexico, in 1974. Javier graduated from his cart and opened several restaurants over the years, including Tacos El Glorieta, then Tacos El Francésa, a nod to the French ancestry of the Valadez family, then finally the now-famous Tacos El Franc that Michelin recommended. The Taco Chronicles on Netflix also features Tacos El Franc, a must-see for taco lovers.
This iconic taco restaurant made the move across the border last year, and the reception has been so overwhelming that they decided to expand and move closer to me. The thought of Tacos El Franc opening downtown in the Gaslamp isn’t just about a shorter drive; it’s about a unique dining experience that brings a piece of Tijuana’s rich culinary culture to our doorstep, a cultural experience I’m eager to share with you.
One of my favorite things about Tacos El Franc is their belief in Vampires. I can only assume that’s why they have my favorite Vampiro Tacos on the menu. All kidding aside, Vampires must have originated in Mexico, not Transylvania, as their tacos are so damn good. For those who are unfamiliar with the Vampiro Taco, I wrote about this regional favorite a few years ago. A Vampiro Taco is an open-face, toasted corn tortilla topped with griddled cheese, served in a taco-like style. This variation on a theme is where it is at. The often toasted, not fried, corn tortilla takes on an earthy corn flavor, and the melted cheese does what melted cheese does: make everything a bit naughty, gooey, and delicious. Tacos El Franc actually fries their corn tortilla, giving it an even bolder crunch.
My usual order at Tacos El Franc is the Vampiro con Adobada, pork marinated in an adobo sauce made from dried chilies, vinegar, garlic, and spices. The pork is then slow-cooked until tender. I always order a cup of their Frijol Con Carne, creamy whole beans served with meat and cheese, onions and cilantro mixed in. These beans may be the best I have ever eaten. And no trip would be complete without a Carne Asada Taco. The crispy edges of the grilled carne, with the ever-present charcoal perfume, instantly transport me back to my Tijuana salad days: bar hopping up and down Avenida Revolución, betting on Jai Alai, and gorging myself on street tacos along the way.
The taste and smell of these dishes trigger memories like few other cues, making each bite a journey back in time. I love to wash these tasty memory bombs down with a caguama of Carta Blanca. For those unfamiliar with the term, a caguama is a type of sea turtle, but it is also slang for a large bottle of beer. Another term popularized by Pacifico is Ballena (Spanish for whale), which also refers to the large 32-oz bottle. Coronas call their large bottles Familiar, referring to the family-sized nature of the bottle. My friends and I would drink these large bottles in quantity at the famous, or rather infamous, Long Bar. These beers were the go juice that fueled the cross-border adventures of our youth.
The food at Tacos El Franc serves more than to satisfy my hunger; it takes me back to a carefree time in my life, surrounded by good friends. In this current climate, I sometimes forget that Tijuana was a rite of passage for so many of us who grew up here in Coronado. I miss the excitement and independence we felt as we crossed the border.
The new downtown location of Tacos El Franc is designed for the late-night drinking crowd, as it is open Monday through Wednesday from 4 pm to midnight and Thursday through Saturday from 4 pm to 2 am. Sunday is the only day you can grab lunch as the hours are from 11 am to 8 pm.
I wanted to experience the late-night vibe myself, so I treated myself to some memories after getting off work. This after-hours meal was a great call because, ever since Night and Day Cafe stopped its 24-hour service, it’s hard to get a bite to eat in Coronado after 10 pm.
It was nearly 11 pm on a Thursday when I rolled up on Tacos El Franc, there was a line to get in and a person working the door. Everything was bright and shiny, and the smells didn’t disappoint. I made a bold move and broke from my routine. I had a Quesadilla Campechano Mixta, a combination of carne asada and adobada, so I still got my two favorite meats, but in a different delivery method. Of course I got my magic beans and it is worth mentioning again how good they are. I would make the trip over the bridge just for these. They were not serving beer so a caguama was not in the cards but beer is coming soon they told me. I rolled out of Tacos El Franc and right into the Gaslamp’s oldest bar Tivoli (est. 1885) to wash down my late night meal.
Thanks to Tacos El Franc, you can now walk right down Fifth Avenue downtown and experience some of Tijuana’s best tacos right in your own backyard. I genuinely believe tacos are not the answer; they are the question, and the answer is always yes. Head over the bridge and support your local taquero.
Tacos El Franc
528 Fifth Avenue, Gaslamp District
