In the interest of full disclosure, I am not a coffee connoisseur nor do I know how to differentiate between “good” and “great” coffee. So, when I set out to interview Coronado resident, Paul Reizen, the owner of West Bean Coffee House, I called in the best resource I knew: my daughter, Marylou. After a lengthy conversation and very pointed instruction as to the nuances associated with what she believes constitutes a credible coffee shop, I was armed and informed for my latest adventure. So, I thought?
I met Paul at the downtown location of West Bean (240 Broadway), just blocks from Horton Plaza. After Paul introduced me to his staff, we sat down outside and he proceeded to “school” me on everything coffee. We began our discussion getting to know one another but that didn’t last long as Paul’s obvious excitement for — and knowledge of — coffee soon took the conversation to a level I was not expecting.
As Paul began to walk me through his background as well as the intricacies of what goes into making coffee, the barista lined up four shot glasses with a sampling of West Bean’s finest cold pressed offerings. I settled back into my chair and took a sip of the Nitro Brew. From the look of the sample, which closely resembled Guinness Beer, I was expecting a bitter taste. To my surprise, it was smooth and creamy even though it was made without any cream. Next up was West Bean’s Cold Brew Blend, which I found to be not as smooth as the Nitro; it was good but not as good as what was about to come. I don’t eat a lot of sweets but when I do, ginger snaps are high up on my list of guilty pleasures (quite boring, I know). So, when Paul described the West Bean Fall Cold Brew, I could taste it before the glass hit my lips. Made in-house with molasses, ginger, cardamom and cinnamon, it was my favorite. Finally, I tried WB’s Kryptonite, a great option for anyone who enjoys mint, half-and-half and homemade simple syrup.
In the interest of time along with a healthy fear that I was going to overdose on caffeine, I had to stop my sampling experience. Plus, with everything West Bean offers, I would have been there all day. Originally, this story was pegged as a human-interest piece and, while Paul’s story is quite interesting and unique, I couldn’t help myself from first plugging the cool and understated coffee house. But I was digressing so my conversation with Paul continued with more explanation as to why West Bean has been so successful and how Paul balances his role as a father, business owner and deputy district attorney for the County of San Diego.
“West Bean is a great release valve,” said Paul, who opened his first store in January 2015. “I love being an attorney. It is a noble profession to do my part in keeping the city and county safe. I have handled some gnarly cases and so, at the end of the day, I get to focus on my creative side, something that I have created. One of the downsides of my job is that I deal with sorrow. By contrast, in a small way, drinking coffee is something most people do and it tends to brighten their day. For me, it’s a nice contrast.”
Paul’s path to entrepreneurship in the coffee business came by way of Japan, where he lived from 1997-2001. It was there that he got the “coffee bug,” which he carried with him when he moved to San Diego to attend law school at University of San Diego. Immediately being hired by the DA’s Office and after working for a few years, Paul began to crave a creative distraction of sorts. Drawing on his love for cooking and being creative, Paul began roasting his own coffee in the backyard of his Kensington home. His first few attempts were made using an old-fashioned popcorn maker. In Paul’s own words this methodology “was not a good idea” and so he purchased a small roaster, finally got the hang of it and started to focus on roasting coffee in his spare time. Soon, the backyard operation resulted in his first client in Old Town, which led to a relationship with the Farmhouse Café in University Heights. Before long, Paul found himself purchasing an El Cajon roaster and the business grew from there.
One of the attributes that sets West Bean apart from other coffee shops in town — and of which Paul is particularly proud — is that its coffees are freshly roasted locally and all its sauces are created here as well. This is a benefit to its growing wholesale operation, West Bean Coffee Roasters, which includes such clients as Coronado Coffee Company and Leroy’s Kitchen and Lounge.
Today, West Bean has both its downtown location as well as a shop located at Liberty Public Market. Given the positive response to West Bean, Paul is looking to grow and is in discussions to expand to an “undisclosed” location in San Diego. Next, he has his sights set on Coronado.
“We moved here almost two years ago, because we love the community,” said Paul, who met his wife at the DA’s office years ago, and with whom he has three young children. “This community is unique. It is a slice of America that is hard to find and we moved here because we wanted to raise our kids in a safe place with great schools. Coronado was a natural choice. If the right place opened here in town, I will do what I can to make it happen.”
Wow is all I can say to both the education I received and truly the best coffee I have ever had. Before anyone suggests that my complement of West Bean’s coffee is gratuitous, note that it is considered by Zagat to be one of the “Top 21 Coffee Hottest Coffee Shops in the U.S.” And West Bean’s Yelp reviews are replete with glowing positive experiences from local patrons and visitors from around the world. If any of our readers truly love coffee, my recommendation is to invest in the ten-minute drive to visit Paul’s West Bean Coffee House. Truly, the best of what life should offer — at least with respect to coffee — exists in our own backyard.
