In China, during the seventh lunar month (Ghost Month), people believe the gates of the underworld open and hungry spirits roam the earth, visiting the living. How do you deal with a hungry spirit? The answer is you feed them. A wide range of offerings is popular, but none is more traditional or comforting than congee, which holds deep cultural significance as a symbol of nourishment and respect for ancestors.
Congee is an ancient Chinese rice porridge with origins in Neolithic Asia dating back 3000 to 10,000 years. This savory porridge has helped stretch resources during famine and hard times. It has, however, grown into a global comfort food that is thought to have medicinal value.
In all my years of cooking and adventurous eating, I had never had congee or any other porridge, for that matter, as even the mention of the word porridge was, at the least, unappealing and at times even scary, as it felt to me a bit like gruel depicted in so many Dickens novels.
Boy was I wrong. Gruel and congee couldn’t be more different: gruel is made with grains and is a watery, flavorless concoction served in prisons, workhouses, and to orphans like Oliver Twist. Congee, on the other hand, is a highly flavorful, nourishing dish full of familiar love, often used for recovery.
I first discovered congee at a wonderful restaurant right here in San Diego’s Golden Hill neighborhood, and it was a real awakening. The restaurant is Kingfisher. It’s one of my favorite spots for some of the most delicious food San Diego has to offer. I saw the Farmers Market Corn and Mushroom Congee on the menu and thought, if Kingfisher is offering congee, it has to be good; let’s give it a whirl. Love at first bite. When this bowl of magic arrived, I was initially taken aback by all the goodies it held: exotic mushrooms, corn, crispy shallots, cilantro, and an egg yolk. The dish came with a side of house-made “Sim” bal Hot Sauce. The congee’s aroma alone made my mouth water.
I have built a career on elevating comfort foods, and there I was experiencing Chinese comfort on a level I didn’t think possible. When I got home that evening, I went online, bought a traditional cast-iron congee pot with a wooden stand, and got to work. That’s how my ADHD works: I obsess and hyperfocus until I have mastered the task at hand.
Like so many other comfort foods, congee kept me up at night. I read about it, watched YouTube videos, and cooked it until I could make a bowl that reminded me of the warmth and familiarity I felt at Kingfisher. I hope you didn’t doubt that I would get there because I have reached the promised land, and I can’t get enough.
The internet would have you believe you either need to buy special rice or break up the rice grains to release more starch. While I am sure both will make a good bowl of congee, neither is necessary. All you need is good medium-grain rice and an 8-to-1 liquid-to-rice ratio. If you’re concerned about texture, feel free to adjust the liquid ratio.
A little goes a long way. When making congee, 1 cup of rice serves 4 people. My traditional congee pot will only cook a cup of rice with its required 8 cups of liquid.
While I almost always use water for rice as a side, I use stock for at least half the liquid when making congee. I also add a smashed piece of ginger and/or some lemongrass.
Cooking takes about 45 min to an hour, and you need to stir fairly often to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
Topping options are endless, from a few simple items to a full-on spread. Recently, I topped mine with fried pork belly, sautéed bok choy, kimchi, fried shallots, chopped green onion, cilantro, and lots of sautéed exotic mushrooms. Feel free to experiment with your favorite proteins, vegetables, or sauces to make your congee uniquely yours.
You can find toppings at H Mart. This Asian supermarket on Balboa in the Pan-Asian Cultural District has it all.
For sauces, I like soy, sambal, and a fun sauce I make from scratch called Prik Nam Pla. I know this sauce is Thai, but my taste buds don’t care. You will find Prik Nam Pla in the condiment caddie of most good Thai restaurants. Origins be damned, when two things taste good together, go for it.
This Halloween, give yourself a break from all the sweets and experience something savory. Take the kids out trick-or-treating, then feed these hungry spirits something warm and comforting. I can’t tell you how satisfying this dish has become for me, and it evokes warmth and nostalgia. I hope you give it a go and have some fun shopping at H Mart. I have included a recipe for congee and my go-to sauce, Prik Nam Pla.
Congee (Chinese rice porridge)
4 servings
Ingredients:
- 8 cups of chicken stock
- 1 cup of short or medium grain rice (rinsed)
- ½ teaspoon of kosher or sea salt
- 1-inch knob of ginger, crushed (optional)
- 1-inch piece of lemongrass, crushed (optional)
Directions:
- Put all ingredients in a pot, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring often to keep it from sticking.
Toppings are totally up to you. For proteins, I love fried pork belly or steak, but crispy-skinned chicken is wonderful too. A rotisserie chicken works well. I love sautéed mushrooms, like shiitake or oyster. I always have chopped cilantro and green onions on hand. Kimchi is a fun addition, too.
For condiments, chili crisp, a good hot sauce, and my favorite Prik Nam Pla are usually enough.
This dish is so versatile, and the topping and condiment combinations are endless. Feel free to mix and match proteins, vegetables, and sauces to create your own signature congee experience that suits your taste and mood.
Prik Nam Pla
Van’s version; I like to tweak things.
Prik refers to the bird’s-eye chili, and nam pla refers to the fermented fish sauce.
- 3 Tbsp fish sauce (Red Boat is the best)
- 3 Tbsp lime juice
- 1 tsp sugar
- 2 tsp garlic cloves, minced
- 6-8 fresh Thai chili peppers, sliced thin into rounds. (Bird’s Eye chilies or long red and green Thai chilies.
Each ingredient in Prik Nam Pla brings something to the table. The fish sauce provides the umami base, the lime juice adds tang, the sugar balances the salty and sour, the garlic adds a sharpness, and the chilies bring the heat.
Mix all ingredients, then adjust seasoning to your liking. Store in the refrigerator for up to a month.
