Have you heard of the Great Eggnog Riot at West Point Military Academy, also known as the grog mutiny or the Christmas 1826 cadet mutiny? Yes, it seems hard to believe. Alcohol was prohibited at the Academy, but there was usually an exception for eggnog at Christmas. When the announcement was made that the nog would be alcohol-free that year, barrels of whiskey were smuggled in by the cadets, and things got a little out of hand. It soon involved a third of the cadets; property was damaged, the rioters threatened officers, and 70 cadets were implicated; 20 were court-martialed. One of the cadets implicated but not court-martialed was Jefferson Davis, who went on to become president of the Confederacy. A foreshadowing: the riot would not be the only time this soldier would end up on the wrong side of history.
So is Eggnog a cocktail worth fighting for? I will leave that up to the individual reader, but I am partial to it, even though I only crave it during the holiday season.
Eggnog is a lot of fun to make at home, and I personally use my grandfather’s recipe. While serving as the naval attaché in Paris, he bought an exceptional copper bowl for whipping egg whites. He would serve his very boozy version of eggnog during the holidays, his gift to the French. During the Christmas season, I follow his recipe, and despite my KitchenAid mixer, I use his heavy copper bowl to whip the whites, a tradition my father passed on to me. Sharing these recipes connects me to my family’s holiday traditions, and I hope they inspire you to create your own.
Eggnog takes a bit of commitment, so if you are pressed for time or want to bring a holiday offering to a party, I am partial to Even Williams Egg Nog, which hits the shelves seasonally. Want to venture out for some Christmas fun? Head over to Seven Grand, my favorite San Diego Whiskey bar, and order their boozy version with fresh nutmeg grated on top; it’s a banger. Exploring different eggnog styles can add a fun twist to your holiday traditions and make your celebrations more memorable.
Feeling the mixologist vibe? I have included two recipes, one from a General and one from an Admiral. I have told you how I lean. BEAT ARMY, oh yeah, we just did! Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Van’s Eggnog
RAdm Clyde James “Van” Arsdall Jr circa 1955
Makes about 15 cups.
Ingredients:
- 1/2 dozen eggs separated into yolks and whites. If you are concerned about raw eggs, you can use pasteurized egg whites. I have never been concerned due to the amount of booze in this.
- 3/4 cup Sugar
- 1 pint Heavy Cream
- 1 pint Milk
- 1 pint Whiskey (Bourbon)
- 1 oz. Rum
Instructions:
- Put yolks and half the sugar into a punch bowl, mix
- Add some of the whiskey and let it sit
- Beat the whites into fluffy peaks. I use our copper bowl and a whisk, but it is a chore. This is a good job for a stand-up mixer.
- Beat the cream lightly until it thickens a bit.
- Fold together the whites and yolks.
- Add the milk, the thickened cream, and the rest of the booze and mix.
- Serve in teacups, or if you have a punch bowl and cups, use those.
- Top with freshly grated nutmeg.
Recipe dated Christmas 1967 in our family recipe book.
The “General Washington” Eggnog Recipe
Mount Vernon Estate
This recipe produces a heavy, alcohol-forward drink that relies on aging to mellow its flavors.
Ingredients:
- Dairy: 1 quart (4 cups) whole milk and 1 quart (4 cups) heavy cream.
- Eggs: 12 large eggs, separated into yolks and whites.
- Sugar: 12 tablespoons (approximately 3/4 cup) granulated sugar.
- The Boozy Blend:
- 1 pint (2 cups) brandy.
- 1/2 pint (1 cup) rye whiskey.
- 1/2 pint (1 cup) dark or Jamaican rum.
- 1/4 pint (1/2 cup) sherry.
- Garnish: Freshly grated nutmeg.
Instructions:
- Mix the Spirits: Combine the brandy, rye whiskey, rum, and sherry in a container. Set aside.
- Prep the Yolks: In a large mixing bowl, beat the 12 egg yolks until they are thickened and pale. Gradually beat in the sugar until well incorporated.
- Combine Slowly: While continuously whipping the yolk-sugar mixture, slowly add the combined liquors—start with a few drops at a time to prevent curdling—then the milk, then the cream.
- Whites & Folding: In a separate, chilled metal bowl, beat the 12 egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the whipped whites into the creamy yolk mixture.
- Age for Best Flavor: Cover the mixture and refrigerate it for at least five days (some historians suggest up to two weeks) before serving. The high alcohol content acts as a preservative, allowing the flavors to meld.
- Serve: Ladle into punch glasses and garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.
Historical Note & Safety
- Authenticity: Mount Vernon librarians note that while this recipe is period-appropriate for the 18th century, it did not appear in George or Martha Washington’s personal papers. It was first attributed to him in Olive Bailey’s 1948 book, Christmas with the Washingtons.
- Raw Egg Warning: This traditional recipe uses raw eggs. While the high alcohol content (over 30 oz of spirits) historically helped preserve the mixture, the FDA recommends using pasteurized eggs to reduce the risk of foodborne illness.
