The Louisiana Purchase cost the United States $15 million (about $323 million in today’s dollars) and gave us 828,000 acres of land. Most importantly, it gave us New Orleans. As a chef, I can tell you that this magical city is the only culinary highlight in this transaction. In my world, there are very few cities that excite my palate more than the Big Easy. The French left an indelible impression on the city, and for that I am eternally grateful.
The aptly named Louisiana Purchase in North Park (2305 University Avenue) brings the bold flavors of New Orleans right to our doorstep. Chef Quinnton Austin is a New Orleans native, and the food he serves takes me right back to family dinners on the Gulf Coast; every bite evokes fond memories.
My family hails from Mississippi, and my grandfather retired in Gulfport right on the coast. Family trips always included a road trip to New Orleans, breakfast at Café du Monde, meals at Brennan’s, and healthy doses of jazz. I loved exploring the French Quarter and the Garden District. When I was older, I finally connected with my southern roots as a chef in Atlanta. The memories of New Orleans guided me as I explored the great bounty of food that the American South had to offer.
I am qualified more than most to pass judgment on the food. Louisiana Purchase is putting out. I am thrilled to tell you that my experience was nothing short of transformative. I encourage everyone to let Chef Quinnton Austin put a little South in your mouth.
Bayou Hour is Louisiana Purchase’s take on happy hour. Happy hour may not have been invented in the South, but trust me when I tell you they have perfected it. You can travel down the Bayou from 3 to 5 pm Monday through Friday. The menu gave me pause, as I wanted to taste everything: Blackened Shrimp and Grits, Jambalaya, and a Catfish Po-Boy. I wanted to save room for the main event, so I had to “settle” for the ACME: seven charbroiled oysters, lemon-garlic butter, and Parmesan cheese — a hat trick of flavors that scored with every bite.
The night my girlfriend Georgia and I went, they had Fried Okra on the menu, one of my all-time favorites. These fried nuggets did not disappoint. I washed those down with one of TLP’s signature cocktails, the Praline Old Fashioned. We were just about to decide on dinner when a basket of Garlic Cheddar Biscuits arrived for the guest on our right. We threw caution to the wind and ordered those as well. The honey butter and jam were the perfect accompaniment to the savory biscuit, so much for restraint. Good thing I wore my fat pants.
For the main event, we chose a house favorite, the Lemon Pepper Catfish with a side of Collard Greens and Oxtail Dirty Rice. Our other entree was the Uptown Gumbo: chicken, shrimp, andouille sausage, and okra over rice, swimming in a dark roux. While we waited for these dishes to arrive, Melinda, a lovely lady sitting next to us offered us one of the beef ribs she had ordered to go. She had driven from North County to pick these up for her son. The chef smoked the ribs beautifully, and the sauce was tangy with a touch of sweetness. Finger-licking good may seem cliché, but the rib was just that.
We had time for another round of cocktails before dinner hit the table. I ordered the Hurricane: house blend rum, fassionola (fruit-flavored syrup found in the Hurricane cocktail), and Pop Rocks, yes, a package of Pop Rocks attached to the glass with a tiny clothespin. I ripped the pack open, dusted a little on my tongue, then the rest into the eye of the hurricane. What a show, the drink really pops.
Georgia got the French Margarita made with Cognac, orange curacao, lemon, lime, and agave, another show-stopper.
Once again, we had overdone it with the ordering, but everything was so darn good. We boxed up what we couldn’t fit in our bellies, but I was not leaving without dessert. The Ooey Gooey was calling my name. Bananas Foster, cream cheese butter cake topped with Bananas Foster and vanilla ice cream. Stick us both with a fork; we were so done, I am surprised we made it off our barstools. As we drove home, we slipped into a delightful food coma.
I cook red beans and rice most Sundays, and you would be hard-pressed to beat my collard greens and cornbread. That being said, I can tell you what Chef Austin is putting out is the real McCoy. There is a delicious slice of the American South right here in North Park. Go get you some of that.
Louisiana Purchase
2305 University Avenue
San Diego, CA 92104
