If turkey were truly remarkable, we’d be eating it year-round. Instead, once a year, this forgettable bird steps into the spotlight. Every November, we start the same debate: roast, spatchcock, or fry? If I had to choose, I’d lean toward frying — it makes the meal an event. But if I’m sticking with the oven, spatchcocking wins. A flat bird cooks evenly and stays tender. Still, the absolute joy isn’t the turkey itself. It’s the leftovers — the sandwiches. And honestly, it’s the company.
So, how do you capture the wow factor of frying a turkey during holiday gatherings without actually serving turkey? Cioppino, I say.
Cioppino is a one-pot showstopper. I love gathering the ingredients: imported fish stock from Pata Negra, seafood from Catalina Offshore, San Marzano tomatoes from Mona Lisa or Garage Buona Forchetta. These ingredients matter because they turn a simple stew into something unforgettable.
The cooking liquid can be made ahead, and the seafood cooks in it just minutes before serving. While it comes up to temperature, you can enjoy a well-earned cocktail. This year, I’m using whole shrimp — shells and heads still on — to make the meal more hands-on. Cooking them whole is a game-changer because most of the flavor lives in those shells and heads. Tossing that aside is a missed opportunity. Your guests will reach into their bowls, peel the shrimp, and enjoy every bit.
Picture a table covered in butcher paper, with empty bowls ready to catch shells and tails. Clams, mussels, and shrimp all require a little work to get to the good stuff. Add baskets of grilled bread brushed with good olive oil and rubbed with garlic, perfect for soaking up the broth at the bottom of each bowl. This lively, hands-on experience with cioppino beats turkey any day.
And yes — there are bibs. I order seafood bibs on Amazon, and I swear nothing brings out the inner child like wearing one. They’re the adult version of birthday hats, and they add a little whimsy to the night.
I’m sharing a family recipe I’ve adapted over the years. If not for Thanksgiving, consider it for Christmas or New Year’s. And if cioppino doesn’t wow your crowd, you might be spending the holiday with the wrong people.
This article may be landing a little late, so if you’re craving what I consider heaven in a bowl, head to Garage Buona Forchetta and order a round. Buona Forchetta is open for Thanksgiving this year with both a holiday menu and our familiar favorites. I’m now at the helm of Officine Buona Forchetta in Liberty Station — my new home away from home. If you want to get off the rock, spend the day with me.
You’ll find my family recipe below, along with a copy of the Thanksgiving menu we’re serving at all Buona Forchetta locations. Happy holidays. Don’t let the meal stress you out. The day is about friends and family. Keep it simple and enjoy it.
Happy Thanksgiving from the May clan to yours.
Cioppino della mia famiflia
Clyde Van Arsdall
Ingredients:
- Olive Oil
- 2 cups of fennel bulb, diced
- 2 cups of onions, diced
- 1 Tablespoon of minced garlic
- 2 teaspoons of fennel seeds
- ½ teaspoon of crushed red pepper
- 1 28 oz. can of San Marzano tomatoes
- 4 cups of seafood stock or clam juice
- 1.5 cups of dry white wine
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 pound of U-15 shrimp
- 30 mussels
- 30 clams
- 1 pound sea scallops
- 2 pounds of cod or other white fish, 2-inch dice.
Directions:
- Heat ¼ cup of olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion and fennel, and sauté for 10-12 minutes until the onions are translucent.
- Add the fennel seeds, crushed red pepper, and garlic, and cook until fragrant.
- Add tomatoes, stock, and wine, along with 1 tablespoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper.
- Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes.
- Add seafood in the following order: cod, shrimp, then mussels and clams.
- Cook for 8-10 minutes until the mussels and clams have opened. Discard any that do not open.
- Serve in large shallow bowls and garnish with fresh parsley and grilled bread.
