While one could easily consider me a food writer, I am first and foremost a storyteller. With all that is new in Coronado these days, I’m more focused on what we have lost and what has stood the test of time. Sandwiched between the two bright, new, shiny restaurants By the Sea and Baby Grand is an old standby that has been serving up community, connection, and some of the best — if not the best — food in Coronado for years. It’s a spot for those of us who grew up here. Of course, I am referring to Tavern, owned and operated by Brooke and C.J. Becky, and John Welsh.
On a recent visit, I was pleasantly surprised to find an old favorite back on the menu, along with a whole host of new items I can’t wait to try. While enjoying this amazing dish, I started thinking about what makes Tavern so special to me and so many others. But let me tell you about the prodigal pork chop.
For three years, I have waited for the Bone-In Pork Chop to make its way back onto the menu at Tavern, and I have to say they have definitely put some lipstick on the pig. This was and is no ordinary pork chop. This center-cut, bone-in beauty comes from Salmon Creek Farms. It is a marriage of Duroc boars and white-line sows that gives this brand of pork products its mouth-watering marbling. A cut so thick and marvelous that, once ordered, it takes a solid 25-30 minutes to cook. The wait is worth every minute. The exterior is adorned with grill marks expertly executed in a perfect diamond pattern; the char from the meat’s caramelized sugars leaves an unearthly aftertaste. I almost hate to wash it away with a sip of my cocktail.
This heavenly chop sits atop a bed of parmesan risotto so creamy it literally melts in your mouth. A few stalks of broccolini are delicately wedged between the pork and risotto. As if that weren’t enough, a rose of paper-thin green apple slices sits atop this two-inch-thick chop, fooling you into thinking it is a cute garnish. Pretty, maybe, but oh so delicious when paired with a bite of pork. If I had one wish for this dish, it would be a side of extra apple slices so I could get a piece on every bite. This may be one of my favorite dishes of all time.
The menu at the Tavern is like a collection of perfect albums; there are no B-sides. The DJ spinning those records is Chef Itze Behar, also known for Black Radish. Mary’s Natural Roasted Chicken Pot Pie is my go-to comfort classic; I always order it with a side of extra-crispy whipped mashed potatoes. I use them to add to the pot pie that honestly needs no additional help, but I guess I am a hedonist and a starch junkie. The pot pie is served in a classic French lion’s head bowl and topped with puff pastry, a sight to behold.
With all the good Mexican food we have in town, when my daughter Sasha wants tacos, she asks to go to Tavern for the Wagyu Steak Tacos listed under “Firsts” on the menu. My kids and I have been regulars for as long as they can remember, always leaving room for the Fresh Baked Cast Iron Cookie with vanilla bean ice cream.
Before I move on to what makes Tavern so special, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention all the new items that have me so excited. Under Firsts on the menu, the Hot Honey Chicken Sliders and the Classic Shrimp Cocktail with Hendrick’s cocktail sauce. Making a return to the Soup & Salad section, The Tavern welcomes back the oh-so-delicious Wedge Salad. Making their first appearance under Entrees, you’ll find the 14oz Kobe Tajima Wagyu Ribeye, the Grilled Picancha Wagyu Steak and Onion Rings, and the Steak au Poivre. Chef Behar is on a tear — lucky us.
I could drown you in another 200 words about the cocktails, but you can discover the magic on your own. I will say the Beet and Agave cocktail may be one of the best drinks I have ever put in my mouth, and this mouth has seen a lot of cocktails. The Aloe and Cucumber cocktail is also a local favorite, but unless you want to be the punch line of after-hours banter, please don’t call it the “green drink.” The bartenders are too nice to tell you, but it drives them up the wall when you order it that way.
As you can surmise from my ranting and raving about Tavern’s food, they have their menu locked down. There is very little — if any — room for improvement. Tavern is worth your patronage if the story stopped there, but it doesn’t. What the Tavern serves up first and foremost is community, connection, and a heaping amount of hospitality.
You want pride of ownership? Look no further than Brooke (CHS ’07) and C.J.(CHS ’12). Brooke’s Alchemy behind the bar and C.J.’s warm smile and generous spirit will keep the drinks coming and warm your soul. Hanna’s attention to service will never let your drink run empty. You want the best damn Old Fashioned on the island? Cortney can pour that for you. Witty banter and a heaping dose of hospitality? Boomer has you covered. The night I ordered my pork chop for this story, Ava (CHS ’18) was my bartender. I watched her ascend to this position from the host stand after years of service. I went to high school with Ava’s parents, Amy Slack (CHS ’89) and Mike Garcia (CHS ’88). The night I devoured the pork chop for this story, Ava was playing a sick lineup of ’80s tunes that I know her father, Mike, helped curate. The staff is blessed with so many locals that give this spot the kind of credibility I haven’t seen since the old Brigantine days.
When I want to run into old friends and classmates, I make a beeline for Tavern. Nearly ten years ago, I reconnected with a girl I went to high school with, Georgia Chakos (CHS ’85). I ran into her on a Friday night when Tavern hosted bands after service and moved the tables to make room for dancing. We have been dating ever since. Yes, Tavern has some of the best food on the island, but it offers much more. It is a gathering spot for those of us who grew up here, a true hangout for locals and industry people who want to connect. Heck, we were hanging out at Wendy’s, which occupied the space in the ’80s, long before it was Tavern. I am blessed to be part of Tavern’s community, and I hope everyone who reads this realizes how special this place really is. Spend your time and money at Tavern; it is an investment worth making.
Tavern
1310 Orange Avenue
Coronado, California
619-437-0611
