There is a new spot in Little Italy, but they are not serving pasta. Taco Centro (2171 Kettner Blvd) is the new kid on the block, and this is their second location, the first being in the Gaslamp, where they are crushing it, so I decided I needed to check it out.
The first thing you notice about Taco Centro is the clean, modern take on the classic taqueria. The staff were friendly and the service was quick, even during the morning rush. I went in the morning before work and was planning to get one of their delicious-looking breakfast burritos, specifically the Bacon, Sausage, and Hashbrown Burrito. Still, the volcans on the menu caught my eye.
If you are not familiar with a volcan, it is the same as a vampiro taco. Regionally, they are known as volcans in northern Mexico and as vampiros in central Mexico and areas like Sinaloa. They both feature crispy toasted corn tortillas with melted cheese and toppings. I have written about these tacos many times before, as they are my favorite bite at both Tacos El Gordo and Tacos El Franc. If you have to ask whether there is a need for another great taco spot, then you probably didn’t grow up here. If you don’t like tacos, I am nacho type.
I liked the Al Pastor Volcan Taco; it had thinly sliced marinated pork from the trompo (rotisserie), with roasted pineapple, guacamole, cilantro, onions, and a cilantro sauce that was banging. What really caught my attention was the carnitas taco I ordered alongside it. The menu description touted a pork shoulder confit. A confit is meat cooked in its own fat. I had not had carnitas that good since I lived on drive-through carnitas tacos from Santana’s. I am not sure when Santana’s changed or stopped serving that specific style of carnitas, but a part of me died the day I learned it was gone. Here, as I ate the Carnitas Taco, a fond memory washed over me. Taco Centro cut the pork shoulder into chunks; they did not shred it. Shredding dries out the pork, in my opinion. Taco Centro fries these magic cubes of pork to perfection, crispy on the outside but juicy and fatty on the inside.
Every bite took me back to that simple time in my life when waves and tacos were everything. I had a different taco shop for every craving; there was no one-stop shop. Carnitas from Santana’s, California Burritos from Roberto’s, rolled tacos from El Indio, and the list goes on.
It was early in the day, and I was on my way to work, when I hit up Taco Centro so I could not enjoy an adult beverage. Still, I will be back for more carnitas and one of their tall 24oz cans of Modelo or Pacifico, with a chamoy and Tajin rim, adorned with a lime wedge. I may even treat myself to the Three Churros Con Tres Leches. House-made churros, fresh out of the fryer, dusted with cinnamon sugar, served with a side of Tres leches sauce. There is so much to do and see in Little Italy. I hope you pop over the bridge and check it out. Don’t miss the chance to experience the unique flavors and friendly atmosphere at Taco Centro! Who’s driving?
Taco Centro
2171 Kettner Blvd,
San Diego, CA 92101
