How old-fashioned is an Oklahoma onion burger? According to burger lore, it dates back to the Great Railroad Strike of 1922 and held strong through the great depression. There were a lot of people out of work, and money was tight. Homer Davis and his son Ross ran the Hamburger Inn, located near the intersection of the now-famous Route 66 and U.S. Route 81. To make their hamburgers more affordable, they started adding a generous amount of thinly sliced onions to the patties to stretch the more expensive ground beef. It later became known as the “Depression Burger.” It sold for five cents, which is roughly ninety-six cents in 2025 dollars.
The method to make an onion burger is simple: Place a ball of ground beef on a hot griddle, and pile on a healthy amount of paper-thin onions. The meat topped with onions is then pressed hard onto the griddle, flattening both into what we all know as a smash-type burger. The onions steam on top of the flattened burger until flipped, at which point the onions start to caramelize on the griddle. As they caramelize, the onions become infused with the beef’s flavor, giving some a sweeter taste and another portion that yummy umami vibe from the caramelization. Once flipped and the onions are on the bottom, the top bun is then placed on the burger while it cooks, which steams and softens the bun. Mustard and pickles were the original condiments, but this burger will stand up to whatever you want to put on it.
Anyone interested in where to find one of these historic burgers? Look no further than Duke’s in La Mesa. Duke’s serves old-fashioned onion burgers, fresh-cut fries, and hand-dipped milkshakes along with a healthy dose of midwestern hospitality. I had to run some errands and found myself within striking distance of Duke’s, so I decided to give this burger a go. If you are simply craving a fun burger and there is no other reason to leave the island, Duke’s is a twenty-minute drive from bridge to burger, well worth the effort.
I went to Duke’s for the classic onion burger experience, but the menu made it hard to stick to the task at hand. The first thing I noticed was that Duke’s offers a chili dog, a favorite of mine, and it is hard to find a good one in San Diego, if you can find one at all. Then there were two outliers on the menu that claimed to be “knife and fork burgers.” The descriptions piqued my interest. The “Bartlesville” and the “Oakie” require utensils. On both these dishes, the onion burgers are bunless, topped with cheese, served on a bed of fries, and smothered in gravy. The Bartlesville comes topped with brown sauce, and the Oakie with country cream gravy. My inner fat kid and outer fat adult felt naughty just thinking about these two gut busters. I will be back, next time in sweats with an elastic waistband.
I ordered the classic single old-fashioned onion burger, Duke’s way, which comes with cheese, mayo, mustard, ketchup, lettuce, and tomato. The lettuce comes shredded and piled high, giving the burger a large profile. I made quick work of my burger. I loved the crispy lacy edges that all proper smash burgers should have, but unlike most smash burgers, some of that crisp was the onions. The paper-thin onions appeared as a filler during hard times, but this did not lessen the experience; instead, it took an average burger to new heights. I now appreciate the genius of an onion burger, and I’m excited to try this method at home in an iron skillet.
My daughter Sasha ordered a Duke’s dog; she likes her dogs plain with just a small amount of ketchup. This unadorned dog was taunting me. I sat there eyeing her giant hot dog and couldn’t help picturing it with mustard, chili, cheese, and onions. What’s wrong with me? Sasha also ordered the milkshake of the month, the Dreamsicle shake. As she slowed down, I took over the second half of her shake. With my first sip, the nostalgia of that 50/50 bar taste washed over me, taking me back to my childhood. For August, the shake will be Apple Pie. Go get yourself one for America.
There was no doubt that the fries were hand-cut. Cooked to perfection, the serving of fries was more than generous. Duke’s has a very convenient condiment table with three large dispensers: ketchup, spicy ketchup, and ranch. It is self-serve. There is also a wall of hot sauces.
The team at Duke’s was incredibly friendly, making us feel right at home. Duke’s has that kind of midwestern vibe that sets it apart from other burger joints. The lady who took my order told me that Duke’s got its name from the owner’s dog, which endears Duke’s to me even more. We were at Duke’s on a Monday around lunch time, and the place was full of workers on their lunch breaks, which is always a good indicator of quality and value. The friendly staff at Duke’s is just one more reason to visit.
Duke’s is not your average burger joint by any measure. Now that I’ve experienced it, I can’t wait to return. The exceptional quality of the regional food at Duke’s, from the old-fashioned onion burgers to the hand-cut fries, is something to be excited about. It’s always worth the trip. My new mantra is to support these local gems, or risk losing them. In these challenging times, it’s more important than ever to support the places we love. So, grab your appetite and head out to Duke’s. You won’t be disappointed.
Duke’s is located at 5020 Baltimore Drive in La Mesa and is open every day from 11 am to 9 pm.
