UNESCO has officially recognized Neapolitan pizza as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, which may sound a bit academic. Still, it puts a global stamp on something Naples has long understood. This is food with lineage. It is craft, ritual, and history baked into dough and flame.
Here in Coronado, we are fortunate to have some of the best Neapolitan pizza in San Diego, coming from Garage Buona Forchetta. I do not say that lightly. I now manage Officine Buona Forchetta in Liberty Station, and I spend a good portion of my life around the ovens. I eat my fair share of these pies and have worked my way through all 31 on the menu, each one its own quiet argument for simplicity done right.
There is a section on the menu labeled “Classiche Napoletane STG.” This section highlights the four pizzas made that follow strict guidelines. STG stands for Specialità Tradizionale Garantita, a European certification that protects true Neapolitan pizza from shortcuts and imitation. The making of these pizzas follows strict, time-tested rules rooted in Naples itself, from the dough to the bake to the blistered crust. It is not about being precious. It is about honoring something worth preserving, and once you taste it, you will agree it is worth saving. Buona Forchetta’s traditional Napoletane pizzas are as follows.
- Margherita: San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.
- Marinara: San Marzano tomatoes, oregano, garlic, grape tomatoes.
- Regina Margherita: mozzarella di bufala, grape tomatoes, basil, parmigiano.
- Puttanesca: Mozzarella, capers, anchovies, olives, San Marzano tomatoes.
Each of these is a classic, using traditional ingredients. The dough must be hand-stretched, never rolled. The pizza must be baked in a wood-fired oven at a minimum of 900°F for 60-90 seconds. The final product is tender, elastic, and easily foldable, with a raised rim and a diameter not to exceed 13.75 inches.
These traditional Neapolitan pizzas are not your typical crisp-crust New York-style pies; the dough is highly hydrated, resulting in a soft, malleable final product. This pizza is often eaten with a knife and fork, rolled, or folded to make it easier to pick up and eat. Â
Giuseppe Cacace is the head pizzaiolo at Officine Buona Forchetta in Liberty Station, and he is the real thing. He has been honing his craft for fifteen years, starting at fourteen in Naples, which is about as honest an origin story as you can get in this business. His first job was at Pizzeria Da Mario in Naples, delivering pizzas and running errands for the pizzaiolo. No romance there, just work. He started at the bottom and stayed observant.
For the first two years, Giuseppe did the unglamorous jobs. Prep, cleanup, and watching quietly while the master worked. In the next phase, he earned his way to the oven and became a fornaio, the one who actually cooks the pizzas. The pizzaiolo is the lead. He makes the dough, guards the ratios, and builds the pies. The fornaio watches everything, learning timing, heat, and instinct, waiting for the day he can step forward and take the reins. Giuseppe did exactly that, and today he is a master in his own right.
Watching him work is a pleasure. The ovens are in full view, so guests can see the craft unfold in real time. Dough stretched by hand, pies launched with confidence, and pulled at exactly the right moment. It is not showy. It is precise.
Much of the culture at Buona Forchetta comes from Mateo Cattaneo, Coronado’s own, and the maestro behind all seven of the restaurants. He has built exceptional teams at every location. If you are lucky, you might even find Mateo himself making pizzas. He is the most hands-on owner I have ever met, and it shows in every blistered crust that hits the table.
Visit Garage Buona Forchetta here on the Island, or head to Liberty Station to dine with Giuseppe and me. If you have not already, it is time to put a little history in your mouth.Â
